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Archive for the ‘Featured Stories’ Category

Adirondack Mountainfest 2013 from the Air

Article by Courtney Ley  

The NEice helicopters and flight crew were busy during this year’s Adirondack Mountainfest! Doug and I arrived on Thursday night with the helicopters calibrated, charged up and ready to fly.  We were on a mission to capture some footage of the spectacular ice climbing that the Adirondacks has to offer. We were lucky to be able to unpack our bags at the Adirondack Rock and River Lodge, the co-host of the event, along with The Mountaineer. The accommodations were no less than perfect.

King Kong takes some aerial photos of Rock and River Friday morning

On Friday, we set off to check out conditions at Roaring Brook. We were not totally surprised to see the brook was still roaring, but with the excellent lighting and the beauty of the waterfall, we launched the WooKong for a closer look.

Click here to get a closer look!

Then it was off to Chapel Pond. Things were in excellent shape and there were climbers spotted all over the area enjoying the ice and the beautiful weather. In the canyon, there were some guided parties getting a head start on the festivities. It was great to stop and chat with them.

The WooKong checks on conditions at Chapel Pond

Of course, any day in the Keene Valley area isn’t complete without a stop in at The Mountaineer, whether you’ve spent the day climbing, hiking or flying, and that’s exactly what we did.

The NEice air fleet buzz The Mountaineer

On Saturday, Doug headed to the cliffs of Poke-O-Moonshine with the WooKong while I stayed in the warm lodge doing some last minute editing to the short film we were presenting that night before the Freddie Wilkenson main event. As it turned out, some of the best footage was taken at Poke-O and I was happy to have last-last minute clips to put together. The flying was tight, but Doug took some risks, piloted well and it paid off!

Click here to check out some of the Poke-O footage!

Ted Hammond waves to the camera.

We took the helicopters to the Keene Central School that night and had them on display to mingle with the climbing community. Before Freddie’s presentation and after The Mountaineer folks and sponsors tossed a lot of goodies into the audience, we showed off our best footage from our first couple of months into the project. Some of the best footage being the crashes, of course.  Always a crowd pleaser! As it turned out, Freddie’s presentation involved aerial footage as well.. on a much grander scale. His presentation of the Tooth Traverse in the Alaska Range was one of the most visually stunning that I’ve seen.

 

Sunday’s weather offered up wicked winds, snow tornadoes and cold temperatures. Doug checked with the flight control tower (me) and I announced the helicopters were grounded for the day. With the presentation behind us, it was time to go climbing. First, we took a hike into Chapel Pond canyon and saw everyone enjoying their clinics.  Then it was time to swing the tools myself. I had yet to climb Chouinard’s Gully, so it was an obvious choice. What an enjoyable climb. As with any classic, it doesn’t take long to see why it is a classic.

We decided to stay over until Monday and caught a couple of quick laps on the Sisters in Cascade Pass. NEice ambassador Emilie Drinkwater of Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides showed up on this bitterly cold day and climbed up the left route as we were on the right side.  Despite encountering extremely brittle ice conditions and almost freezing to death, it was perfect.

Chouinard’s Gully from the air

Doug nearing the top of Sisters right. (photo courtesy of Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides – Emilie Drinkwater)

It was a fantastic weekend spent with great company, great meals and lodging, fun climbing and excellent presentations to keep that stoke going!  Thank you to everyone who stopped by to say hi and see the helicopters on Saturday night and also throughout the weekend.  To everyone I say, this is only the beginning!  UP!

(Click images to enlarge)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – 2013

MWVIF Presenters 2013

About..

Since its inception 20 years ago this event has been eagerly anticipated by ice climbers in the Eastern United States and is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. It is intended to be a celebration of ice climbing and winter mountaineering and the people that make it a part of their lives. It continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. The Mt. Washington Valley is one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. Each year we offer a variety of skills-based clinics and exciting slide shows with featured climbers and guides from the New England area and around the world.

Why Climb with us at Ice Fest?

  • You’ll learn from the absolute best! We have the biggest roster of guest guides to date this year
  • You’ll meet lots of other climbers and maybe a future climbing partner
  • There are courses for all abilities
  • Jaw dropping videos/shows
  • Free Gear Demos!
  • Free Food
  • It’s Fun

 

Shows

FRIDAY & SATURDAY NIGHT:

LOCATION: Theater In The Wood, Intervale, NH
TIME: Doors open at 7pm
HOST: DJ Mon Voyage Neon
COST: $10 per night

FRIDAY, FEB. 1st:

  1. Nick Bullock- multi media show
  2. Renan Ozturk, & Freddie Wilkinson- multi media show

The American Alpine Club Silent Auction for the LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
AAC membership get in for $5 or FREE if you signup/renew your AAC membership at the door.

SATURDAY, FEB. 2nd:

  1. Silas Rossi & Peter Doucette- 4 min Short Film
  2. Josh Wharton- multi media show
  3. Kyle Dempster-  multi media show

THE 20th ICE FEST BIRTHDAY BASH !!!!!!

More…

http://www.mwv-icefest.com/

http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/

http://www.mwv-icefest.com/blog/

 

Source: http://www.mwv-icefest.com/

 

 

New Petzl Ice Climbing Products


New – Fall 2013 Ice Climbing Tools

Photo Casque @Lafouche
 

casque 



LASER SPEED LIGHT: Lightweight ice screw with integrated handle

Ultra-light screw with aluminum tube is ideal for mountaineering. Starting is facilitated by the optimized shape of the steel drill. The integrated flexible crank gives an optimized lever, making it easier and faster to screw in.

 

casque 

LASER SPEED: Ice screw with integrated crank

The LASER SPEED ice screw starts easily due to the optimized drill shape. Strength and durability are improved due to the steel tube and specific threading. The integrated flexible crank gives an optimized lever, making it easier and faster to screw in.

 

casque 

LASER: Ice screw

Starting the LASER ice screw is facilitated by the optimized drill shape. Strength and durability are improved due to the steel tube and specific threading. Screwing is facilitated by the excellent ergonomics of the aluminum hanger.

 

casque 

D-LYNX: Screw-in mono-point crampons for ice climbing, mixed climbing and dry tooling

Screwing the mono-point D-LYNX crampons directly onto shoes reduces weight considerably and improves rigidity. The shape and angle of the points are designed for expert use in dry tooling, mixed or ice climbing. The D-LYNX offers more striking precision thanks to the front/back positioning adjustment.

 

casque 

LIM’ICE: Sharpener for ice screws

The simplified handling of the LIM’ICE screw sharpener makes drill sharpening faster and easier. The two sharpening guides optimize precision sharpening on both sides of the drill teeth.

 

SMUGGS ICE BASH – 2013


January 25-27, 2013

The ice is coming back with a vengeance!  With very cold weather building ice all week it should be a great weekend in the Notch! Look for NEice at the the parking lot at the entrance to the Notch for some hot soup and a look at the NEice helicopters! Lets hope the flying weather is good! Hope to see you there.

Friday, January 25


Petra Cliffs Climbing Center, Burlington VT

6:00 – 10:00pm: Smuggs Ice Bash Kick-off Party
Drytooling Competition
Public Dyrtooling Demos
Anne Skidmore Photography Silent Auction
Alden Pellett Newfoundland Slideshow
MORE DETAILS!

Petra Cliffs Climbing Center
105 Briggs St., Burlington VT
(802) 657-3872

$5 entry, any further donation to the KISMET Rock Foundation or CRAG-VT appreciated!

Saturday, January 26

Breakfast available for purchase at The Mix Cafe & Bakery at the Smuggs Inn, open at 7am

Clinics 9am – 3:30pm

2-4pm: Free: Science of Ice Climbing Demo at “Frank’s Creation” aka Guide’s Wall

Aprés climb & dinner available at the Smuggs Tavern

Slideshow Presentation by Kevin Mahoney: First Ascents from New England to Alaska to Nepal; Free
6:00pm  at Smuggler’s Notch Inn & Tavern, 55 Church St., Jeffersonville VT

Raffle to benefit CRAG-VT

Sunday, January 27

Breakfast available for purchase at The Mix Cafe & Bakery at the Smuggs Inn, open at 7am

Clinics 9am – 3:30pm

Ice Bash wrap-up at the Smuggs Inn & Tavern

More info here…http://www.smuggsicebash.com/

Frankenstein’s Monster

There is a beast lurking in Crawford Notch…

It has razor sharp teeth, scythe-like claws, a tail longer than it’s body, and it’s a mean mother$%#&er!!!!

It is Frankenstein’s Monster, and it is wreaking havoc upon unsuspecting gumbies and seasoned hardmen alike.

It is:

Frankenstein’s Monster… the scourge of New England’s ice climbers

 A RED SQUIRREL!

Article by Patrick Cooke
 
 

That’s right, if you haven’t already heard, there’s a red squirrel ravaging packs at Frankenstein. He’s stealing our PB&J, hiding our keys, and racking up roaming charges on our cell phones. Does he know how to operate a zipper? #$%& no! Like his larger cousin, Honey Badger, he doesn’t give a $#!&, and is going to rip open that nice new $300 pack in search of the sweet sweet goodness of that already eaten gu packet you left in the lid.

With such a rare and vile creature on the loose, I felt compelled to seek him out and see why he is reigning terror upon New England’s ice climbing community. I found him along the tracks, standing over the ravaged corpse of his latest kill, a poor, defenseless Wild Things Andanista, half a foil-wrapped bagel with nutella hanging from his shark-like maw.

I approach him cautiously as he measures me up with his beady eyes, slowly tearing apart the bagel. “What the #$%& are you looking at, gigantor? You want a piece of me? I’ll tear you and your fancy jacket up so fast… you better be moving on! But leave your pack, I think I smell Jet Blackberry in there… I love that $#&%!” His voice is something like Mike Tyson on helium, though I have the sneaking suspicion that if I’m not careful he’s going to bite off more than the lobe of my ear.

At this point I’m starting to question the wisdom of this venture. Sure, there are about 33 people above me on/waiting to get on Standard Route, but they’re all looking down sheepishly, glad it’s not them about to stare down the beast. I figure I better do something to get on his good side and toss him a Gu packet.

The monster tears into the packet like a contestant on The Biggest Loser wants to tear into a Krispy Kreme donut. At my feet is a whirlwind of red fur, foil shards, and purple gelatinous material. The creature looks up, left, right, grabs a pack from the pile of offerings to the deified beast made by frightened mortals, and takes off up the tracks. I race to follow, seeing him make a turn up towards Dracula.

Once I find myself at the base I see in the little nook on the left a guide consoling a client rocking back and forth curled up in a near fetal position muttering “why me, why me, why me.” The brute accosted the poor man, ripped the tools from his hands and was in the midst of campusing up the middle line when he lets go of the pack he stole.  I jump aside just in time to avoid getting clocked, hearing the “WHOMP” of the pack exploding into the snow next to me. “SUCKERS!” He’s topped out, and I see two black objects come flying off of the top. “ROCK!” We scramble out of the way as the two stolen tools are returned to their owner, their structural integrity questionable at this point.

*****

A high-pitched maniacal laughter echoes from our left, from the top of the Coffin, moving towards Dropline. I take off down the climbers path and turn the corner just in time to see a small red ball running down Dropline. He’s down-soloing the hardest line on the cliff, face first, as if it were the escalator at the mall. He’s long gone by the time I arrive, huffing and puffing, at the base of Dropline. The maniacal laughter continues though, and I find the bushy-tailed vandal atop the pile of packs below Standard.

“Jet Blackberry, I love that $#!&. 2x caffeine! WHAHAHAHAAHAH” At which point he rips open another pack. As he’s tearing through the contents of his latest victim, I ask him why he terrorizes us so. “Dude, I live here, you all are trespassing. Do I come to your house and piss all over it? Seriously, what are you, 33? What’d you do, some kind of Freaky Friday thing where you swapped prostates with a 70-year old man? WTF?”

I ask if he’s ever considered being civil and asking people to change their behavior, but he ignores such an idiotic querry.

“Hey, what else you got on you?”

“Oh, me, sorry, that gu packet was really all…” Before I know it I’m thrown onto my back and flipped over, the leviathan ripping into my pack in search of any food I may have.

“Mother @#$%er I know you’re holding out on me!”

As he shreds my pack I manage to slip it off my back and drag myself away from the carnage in a panic.

“Run! Run! RUN!” I hear from up above on Standard. Looking at the beast I see a murderous gleam in his eyes.

I run… I don’t look back, I just run. I swear I can feel his hot, fiery breath at my heels, but I just run.

*****

Hopefully someone’s selling a pack on the classifieds

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