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Endangered Species

January 19th, 2011

Poko-O-Moonshine – Adirondacks, NY

01/14/2011
Adirondack Mountainfest 2011

Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered Species” M6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”.

“It’s so cool that, after all these years, the Northeast continues to generate some of the most exciting winter climbing in the country” – Dougald MacDonald

The 2 Matts having a go on Gorillas In The Mist. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike

The 2 Matts having a go at Gorillas / Endangered Species earlier that week. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike

We were treated with photos and a video of the ascent Sunday night at Matt McCormick’s slide show. A very impressive climb by some very motivated and committed climbers. Well done. See the video..

Matt Hornor,s tools on Gorillas in the Mist. - Photo by Jessew

Matt Horner's tools on Gorillas in the Mist, 2008. – Photo by Jessew

Many attempts over the years have been made on this section of cliff . Lack of good ice has always blocked the way. Back in 2008, Matt Horner tried the climb in an after-work ascent where he ended up lowering off his tools in the dark, that was the best anchor he could build in the thin, candled ice (see photo).

See Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list By Mark Kroese for information on Gorillas in the Mist

The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route “Endangered Species”. Photo by Jim Lawyer

Source: Matt McCormick, Matt Horner, Bayard Russell, NEice Forum, Facebook & Climbing.com

Story Up-Date 1/20/11

“There are a couple of things that we did do, and a couple of things that we didn’t do; here’s the deal” – Bayard Russell

Too Warm? Beware!

January 3rd, 2011

Dangerous Liaisons

Warm spells can create freeze-thaw cycles that are the stuff of new route dreams. But, as NEIce member RAH found last week, underestimating how much warmth is too much could have been fatal.

Now you see it, now you don't!

For the whole story, see RAH’s post:

http://neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=56833#Post56833

Another close call last winter at Willoughby for NEice member dpowers. A huge water release: http://neice.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6941

December 15, 2010

December 15th, 2010

Photo of the Week

Miron on Twin Towers, Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY 12/11/10, Photo grzegorz

AAC Grant Deadlines Fast Approaching

The American Alpine Club awards more than $50,000 every year for projects ranging from worldwide exploration to local conservation. The application deadline for two of the AAC’s more prominent grants, the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award and McNeill-Nott Award, is January 1, 2011. Deadlines for other AAC grants are quickly approaching. More…..

Asia joins Ice Climbing circuit – will North America follow?

The countdown to the 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup – January 8th to March 8th has begun. For the first time, an event will be held in Asia, hosted by the Korean Alpine Federation. There will be Lead and Speed competitions in Cheongsong, Korea, as well as the established events across Europe.

The UIAA would like to expand the circuit further, and organize or certify some North American events…More….

Source: www.theuiaa.org

Petzl Lighting Survey

“To create and produce an innovative products, we must first understand the needs and wants of our customers …” More….

Bozeman Ice Fest 2010

Thirty-five and Partly Sunny for First Clinic. More on Alpinist.com

Petzl T-Rated ICE & DRY Picks

In any developing sport, the high end of the equipment spectrum is constantly changing. This is the case in the growing sport of ice climbing. More….

Full Scottish Conditions

Whitney-Gilman Ridge – Kevin Mahoney

Homeland Insecurity

Climbers Alex, and Kyle taking on this seasons first ascent of Homeland Insecurity (WI 4 380′) at the Narrows PA. 12/12/10 – Smike

December 7, 2010

December 7th, 2010

Winter! Here it comes…

Mike Garity on an icy Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH - Alan Cattabriga

Mike Garity topping out on Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH 12-05-10 – Alan Cattabriga

After the last thaw, most of the good climbing has been up high. That is about to change. After torrential rains last week the cold is back with a vengeance. A temperature of -4 is forecast for Lake Willoughby VT Thursday night. Look for perfect ice making conditions over the next week.

Where there is a will, there is a way

Paddling the ‘icebreaker’ canoe through the frozen surface of Cascade Lake to reach ‘Three Flows’ and ‘Feeding Frenzy’. So much easier than bushwacking through the big talus.

Ian Osteyee – Adirondack Mountain Guides

www.adirondackmountainguides.com

by Alden Pellett

First Solo of Cerro Standhardt

Argentinean Patagonia

Colin Haley makes the first solo ascent of Cerro Standhardt via the Exocet route (500m, WI5, 5.9).

“The chimney is four pitches long, with difficulties of about WI4, WI5, WI5, and WI4.”

For more details and photos, visit colinhaley.blogspot.com.

Things are shaping up nicely

2nd pitch of “Called on Account of Rains”, Lake Willoughby VT

Photo: Ridgerunner 12 -5-10

The Ice is Headed South!

Jason H. enjoying a nice lead on The “Little Black Dike”, Catskills, NY

Photo: Saoirse1 12/7/10

How to hold an ice tool, “small stuff.”

“I’ve done a whack of ice climbing and coaching the same in the last two weeks, and it’s made me think of a few “small things” that make a huge difference for climbing ice. Most of this stuff is in my book or other writing somewhere, but I have to relearn it myself every season.”

More….

Source: Gravsports.com / Will Gadd

Rain + Cold Weather = GREAT ICE!

This weekend is shaping up to be the best so far this season. Last weeks rain, and now cold has set the stage for rapid recovery in most areas. Sharpen your tools and pack your bags, winter is here!

Game on..Dec Ice Outlook

by Smike

The only thing from keeping the air from historic cold for this time of year, is the lack of snow cover. More….

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Click on map for 6-10 day temperature forecast.

CORE

Rechargeable battery for the TIKKA2 – ZIPKA2 line of headlamps from Petzl

Designed for the TIKKA 2 – ZIPKA 2 line of headlamps, the CORE battery offers an advantage over regular batteries. It is very easy to insert and can be charged via any standard USB charger: a cell phone charger, a multimedia device, cigar lighter charger, or even a solar panel, a portable energy source, a computer, etc.

Excellent performance at low temperatures, thanks to Lithium Ion Polymer technology.

More at Petzl.com

It’s Back!

November 24th, 2010

The Ice has Returned to the usual Early Season Locations

After a week + of warm weather, which took it’s toll on what little ice we had, the cold temps have returned! Climbable ice was found in the Adirondacks & Northern New Hampshire over the weekend.

Rowdy Dowdy on the thin start of 'Screw and Climbaxe'. A few worthless stubby screws halfway up. Half a dozen parties climbing the two routes that were 'in'. – 11/21/10 North Face of Pitchoff, Adirondacks NY – Rockytop

11/21/10

Mikeg on the start to Yale Gully

Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH

- Alfonzo

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