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Archive for the ‘Cover Photos’ Category

Endangered Species

Poko-O-Moonshine – Adirondacks,  NY

01/14/2011
Adirondack Mountainfest 2011

Story Up-Date 1/20/11 from Bayard Russell

True to Mountainfest tradition of establishing new climbs, Bayard Russell, Matt Horner & Matt McCormick established – “Endangered SpeciesM6+ NEI5+ R. The climb is just to the right of Jeff Lowes legendary line “Gorillas in the Mist”.

“It’s so cool that, after all these years, the Northeast continues to generate some of the most exciting winter climbing in the country” – Dougald MacDonald

The 2 Matts having a go on Gorillas In The Mist. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike

The 2 Matts having a go at Gorillas / Endangered Species earlier that week. No tools left this time. Photo by Smike

We were treated with photos and a video of the ascent Sunday night at Matt McCormick’s slide show.  A very impressive climb by some very motivated and committed climbers. Well done.  See the video..

Matt Hornor,s tools on Gorillas in the Mist. - Photo by Jessew

Matt Horner's tools on Gorillas in the Mist, 2008. – Photo by Jessew

Many attempts over the years have been made on this section of cliff . Lack of good ice has always blocked the way. Back in 2008,  Matt Horner tried the climb in an after-work ascent where he ended up lowering off his tools in the dark, that was the best anchor he could build in the thin, candled ice (see photo).

See Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list By Mark Kroese  for information on Gorillas in the Mist

The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route "Endangered Species" (Horner/McCormick/Russel). Photo by Jim Lawyer

The Big Wall section of Poke-O. The thin strip of ice is the new route “Endangered Species”. Photo by Jim Lawyer

More on the NEice Forum

Source: Matt McCormick, Matt Horner, Bayard Russell, NEice Forum, Facebook & Climbing.com

Story Up-Date 1/20/11

 

“There are a couple of things that we did do, and a couple of things that we didn’t do; here’s the deal” – Bayard Russell


Too Warm? Beware!

Dangerous Liaisons

Warm spells can create freeze-thaw cycles that are the stuff of new route dreams. But, as NEIce member RAH found last week, underestimating how much warmth is too much could have been fatal.

Now your see it, now your don't!

Now you see it, now you don't!

For the whole story, see RAH’s post:

http://neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=56833#Post56833

Another close call last winter at Willoughby for NEice member dpowers.  A huge water release: http://neice.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6941

December 15, 2010

Photo of the Week

Twin Towers Poko

Miron on Twin Towers, Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks NY 12/11/10, Photo grzegorz

AAC Grant Deadlines Fast Approaching

The American Alpine Club awards more than $50,000 every year for projects ranging from worldwide exploration to local conservation. The application deadline for two of the AAC’s more prominent grants, the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award and McNeill-Nott Award, is January 1, 2011. Deadlines for other AAC grants are quickly approaching.   More…..

December 7, 2010

Winter! Here it comes…

Mike Garity on an icy Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH - Alan Cattabriga

Mike Garity topping out on Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH 12-05-10 – Alan Cattabriga

After the last thaw, most of the good climbing has been up high. That is about to change. After torrential rains last week the cold is back with  a vengeance. A temperature of -4 is forecast for Lake Willoughby VT Thursday night. Look for perfect ice making conditions over the next week.

StandardLine

It’s Back!

The Ice has Returned to the usual Early Season Locations

After a week +  of warm weather, which took it’s toll on what little ice we had, the cold temps have returned! Climbable ice was found in the Adirondacks & Northern New Hampshire over the weekend.

Rowdy Dowdy on the thin start of 'Screw and Climbaxe'. A few worthless stubby screws halfway up. Half a dozen parties climbing the two routes that were 'in'. - rockytop

Rowdy Dowdy on the thin start of 'Screw and Climbaxe'. A few worthless stubby screws halfway up. Half a dozen parties climbing the two routes that were 'in'. – 11/21/10 North Face of Pitchoff, Adirondacks NY – Rockytop

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