Poke-O-Moonshine is
going off!
Report by Will Mayo
Over
the past week "Midlife Crisis Direct" has seen dozens of
ascents (with Joe Szot and Jim Lawyer adding a new mixed
finish in the corner to the left called "Untimely
Death"), "Lost at Sea Direct" has been done numerous
times and "Stingray" was climbed by Ian Osteyee and
Chris Fay.
Today (1/10/06) Joe Szot, Matt Horner and
I opened "Katherine" (M8, 110m) at long last. This
route was the last remaining obvious plum at
Poke-O-Moonshine. We had all stared at the tempting and
spectacular icicles that hang over the Paralysis
Amphitheater year after year; yet the hangers had
remained inviolate. The 55m first pitch had been done
before and ascends the big black corner below the roof
which is the summer rock climb "Moonshine" and involves
only rock protection and hollow, technical but not
strenuous ice. The crux of this pitch occurs toward the
end of a 30' run-out. The second pitch works up a short
ice bulge and then straight out right onto rock as it
follows the wide horizontal gap (from which we trundled
a ton of horrid crumbly rock) and up onto the exquisite
gently overhanging golden anorthosite past four bolts on
thin holds to the free-hanging blue icicles that hang
from the lip of the enormous roof. The crux is short
and is basically one really big move from a thin hook to
a bucket and then the ice. This route is a real gem!