"CLOAK
AND DAGGER"
Smugglers Notch VT
Will Mayo
Dave Furman
December 2003
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CLOAK AND DAGGER, 135m,
5.8 A0 M4 WI6- (whew--that was a mouthful!)
C&D is the obvious ice route
to the right of Ragnarock, beginning at the extreme
low point of the wall. The line as it's currently
formed generally follows the summer rock route BETTER
LIVING THROUGH CHEMISTRY, and makes liberal use of the
fixed gear on that route, including 2 of the belay
anchors. In the past, a line just Left of this has
been dry tooled, but it's scary. Dave Furman
Will Mayo on the
final Column.
P1 Climb the initial rock bulge
of BLTC to reach the ice. Belay above and Right in a
left facing corner, at a good fixed anchor. 40m, 5.8
A0 WI 4 (I pulled on a couple of the bolts--should not
affect the difficulty though)
P2 Climb to the big
ledge--there's another fixed anchor on the right below
a big block. 25m, WI4
P3 Climb thin ice to a fixed
anchor on a good ledge left of the R.facing corner
marking the start of P4. 50m, WI4 X
P4 Climb Right past fixed gear
to a good stance below the icicle. I'm sure you can
figure out the rest... 20m, M4 WI6-
From the top, step Right a few
feet and make 2 Rappels from a good tree, 60m and 60m.
Photo & Text: Dave Furman
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