"CLOAK AND DAGGER"

Smugglers Notch VT

Will Mayo
Dave Furman

 

December 2003

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CLOAK AND DAGGER, 135m, 5.8 A0 M4 WI6- (whew--that was a mouthful!)
C&D is the obvious ice route to the right of Ragnarock, beginning at the extreme low point of the wall. The line as it's currently formed generally follows the summer rock route BETTER LIVING THROUGH CHEMISTRY, and makes liberal use of the fixed gear on that route, including 2 of the belay anchors. In the past, a line just Left of this has been dry tooled, but it's scary. Dave Furman
 
Will Mayo on the final Column.
 
 
 
P1 Climb the initial rock bulge of BLTC to reach the ice. Belay above and Right in a left facing corner, at a good fixed anchor. 40m, 5.8 A0 WI 4 (I pulled on a couple of the bolts--should not affect the difficulty though)
P2 Climb to the big ledge--there's another fixed anchor on the right below a big block. 25m, WI4
P3 Climb thin ice to a fixed anchor on a good ledge left of the R.facing corner marking the start of P4. 50m, WI4 X
P4 Climb Right past fixed gear to a good stance below the icicle. I'm sure you can figure out the rest... 20m, M4 WI6-
From the top, step Right a few feet and make 2 Rappels from a good tree, 60m and 60m.
Photo & Text: Dave Furman