Le Mulot
WI6+R (250m)
Riviere
Sainte-Marguerite, Sept-Iles, Quebec |
Overview: Le Mulot WI6R (250m) is one of the hardest
and most sustained pure ice climbs in Quebec with back-to-back grade
6 pitches at the top. After several attempts during the mid-1990s,
Patrice Beaudet and Mario Mélançon completed the first ascent on
February 18, 1997. Their name, le mulot, translates as “a
small field rat” and arises from the “small rat hole” before the
crux pitch where the belayer hides from ice fall. A week later,
Richard Gotlieb made the second ascent, recounting stories of 30m
foot runouts on the last pitch. Subsequent parties have encountered
15m runouts on over uncertain protection demanding extreme composure
that comes from an ability to solo 5+. Despite its difficult
protection, uncertain ice, and spontaneous ice fall, Le Mulot
remains one of the most aesthetically pleasing and awesome ice
climbs on the east-coast, which will only gain in international
reputation as it sees more ascents.
Approach:
From the West side of the dam across the Rivière
Sainte-Marguerite, snowmobile (or ski) 8.5 kilometers to a sheltered
peninsula on the west side of the river below the obvious big ice
routes (30 minutes). Follow the taped trail to the base of the
Pillier Simon-Proulx. Head left and traverse up along the base of
the cliff until further progress requires technical climbing. Step
out left onto a snow slope and belay (30 minutes).
P1:
Diagonal up and left over thin ice and snow to gain a snow slope
that leads to the base of the ice. Belay on the left where the
columns hit the snow. 2, M3 (70m)
P2:
Climb straight up a series of
vertical free-standers to reach thin ice which is climbed up and
left to an ice cave. (Fixed wires can be backed up with a gold
Camalot) 5 (60m)
P3:
Traverse up and right to the base of the overhang and then head back
left on big cauliflowers. Surmount free-hanging ice right of a
free-hanging pillar to gain an ice corner which is stemmed until the
ice degenerates. Step left and climb an incredibly steep and
sustained pillar, avoiding marginal ice on the left, to a good belay
off screws on a ledge beneath a couple large free-hangers. 6R (60m)
P4:
Step right and climb a vertical column to gain a system of
cauliflowered hanging curtains. Trend back left and follow better
ice up the curtains through some overhanging cauliflower sections to
the top. A thin exit leads to the trees. 6+R (60m)
Descent:
Rappel the route.
Gear:
Bring a full set of ice screws and a selection of rock protection
(knife blades, angles, small cams).
Variations:
Instead of pitch 1 in this description, motivated climbers can start
on the left and add 60m of possibly thin grade 4 ice and 50m of snow
by climbing straight up to reach bottom of pitch 2. Depending on
conditions, major center and right variations may be possible with
varying amounts of hard overhanging mixed climbing. Some variations
will surely require modern bolting techniques like those pioneered
at Pont Rouge.
Topo-guide:
Stéphan Lapierre et Jean-Claude Maurice, Les Cascades de
Glace du Québec, L’Enchanteur, 1993. This guide lists Le
Pillier Simon-Proulx WI5 (175), which is 400m right of Le
Mulot, as well as a number of other ice climbs in the area. This
out-of-print edition is available online in
PDF format
Season:
February is probably the best month because the temperatures start
warming up towards manageable levels between –15 and –5C, from
sustained winter lows around –40C. The ice climbs face Southeast and
catch sun all morning, which can moderateotherwise cold days. Their
orientation also provides shelter from the gale-force winds that
funnel down this glacial valley.
Snowmobile:
Contact Jean Charbonnepo at 418-968-3738 to arrange for a ride in to
the ice climbs. He speaks good English. Or for full outfitting,
including snow mobile rental, contact Adventure Côte Nord at
418-962-6051, 418-962-2746 (cell),
line@bbsi.net The going rate is $100-130cdn roundtrip for two
using two snowmobiles, less for one snowmobile with a sled. A
snowmobile suit over your ice climbing suit assures warm on what can
be an extremely windy ride.
Accommodations:
Sept-Iles has a full range of services that include a number of
motels. The Comfort Inn charges $60-90cdn for two people per
night.
Food:
The brasserie Le Vieux Cartier provides good food and live
entertainment for reasonable prices.
Getting
There: From Quebec City, drive route 138 East on the North Shore
of the St. Laurence River to Sept-Iles. Driving time is about 8-9
hours with good road conditions. The driving crux is the 28-wheelers
flying down iced up road and creating 30-second whiteouts. Better
and straighter roads can be taken on the South side of the St.
Lawrence to Matane, from which a ferry runs to Baie-Comeau and
Godbout. For the ferry schedule see:
http://www.traversiers.gouv.qc.ca/matane/. Beyond saving
an hour of driving time, the ferry has the advantage of allowing one
to combine a visit to the Sept-Iles or Baie-Comeau areas with ice
climbing on the Gaspé Peninsula.
Language: There is plenty of English spoken in Sept-Iles because
industry bring in people from all over North America. However,
fluency in French will surely make your trip a little smoother and
allow you to better appreciate the local culture.
Source:
John Mallery
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