Josh Hurst at the roof of "Astro Turf"
Astro Turf
(IV M9, WI 4+ R)
On Saturday Jan 7, 2005, Josh
Hurst and I climbed a new route in the central section
of Mt. Pisgah. “Astro
Turf” start as for Aurora about 150’ right of
Super-Nova in the right facing ice/turf gully on the
left side of the Star man buttress. The first 2 pitches
follow Aurora.
1. Climb the 40’ right
facing ice/turf gully to the big snow ledge and belay
below the left facing turf and rock corner capped by a
chockstone.
2. M5 - Dry tool into and up the left facing groove past
one fixed pin and tunnel under the chockstone capping
the groove. Belay immediately after the chockstone at
the fixed nut/pin anchor.
3. M6/WI 4+R - Standing on the chockstone, dry tool left
until established on the ice. There is a fixed angle and
nut that can be found at the stance at the end of the
traverse. The pin is reachable after stepping up
immediately after the traverse. This pin may be covered
in ice depending on the conditions but can be dug out
against the main black wall. Once across the traverse,
climb 80-90 degree thin ice for a 30-40 ft run out on to
thicker ice. Climb thicker ice to the top of the ice
smear and belay
4. M9 - Dry tool up into the shallow groove past 2 bolts
and small cam placements. At the end of the groove,
reach up and clip the bolt in the 6’ roof then pull
strenuously out the roof past 2 more bolts and up the 90
degree thin ice to the ledge above.
5-6. WI 5 - Climb the center of three flows to the top
as for (Starman?).
Standard rack needed
plus ice screws.
Topo map
of the climb
- Matt McCormick
