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Archive for January, 2011

Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2011

February 4th-6th, 2011

North Conway, NH

MWVice FestPoster1

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, aka Ice Fest, was started 18 years ago by local climbing legend Rick Wilcox. One of the premier climbing events in the country, Ice Fest brings together climbers of all abilities to celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the comradery of ice climbing.

Friday evening Film Fest: The evening includes the Outdoor Research Film Fest with films that include Matt McCormick, Rufus J Lusk, Granite Films, Ueli Steck , Rob Frost , and Steve House !

HouseSolo“Granite Films documented Steve House soloing Repentance last year! This piece will make you squirm and your hands sweat.”

Openings for clinics are still available.  Sign up before they are filled!

See more about this event on NEice, the festival blog spot and IME

See you there!

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Spray Ice, Quick Report

PONDELLA__HELMCKEN__6357

“This is going out from Tim Hortons in Salmon Arm, BC. I wanted to post Pondella’s photos and some words. Yeah!”

“I am sure of little in life, but of this I am sure: The Helmcken Falls spray ice cave is absolutely the wildest, best, most insane ice climbing area I’ve ever seen.”

“The metal detector was an integral part of the rack, and will be for future ascents” – Will Gadd

Much More ….

Source: gravsports.com, Will Gadd

A gentleman’s day at “The Lake”

Stormy Monday

by B. Cote

Vimeo: please specify correct url

Smuggs Ice Bash 2011

The 5th annual Alpinist / Smuggs Ice Bash takes place this weekend.

Friday, January 28: Kick off the Ice Bash weekend at Petra Cliffs in Burlington!

6:45 p.m. Matt McCormick presents “Climbing & Culture” – world class photography and video from Pakistan’s alpine playground, the Charakusa Valley.

indoor ice climbing7:00 p.m. Drytooling Competition begins – watch the area’s best climbers battle it out to a winner take all finish.  Presented by Petzl.

Saturday & Sunday, January 29-30: the 5th annual Smuggs Ice Bash, the local’s ice climbing festival at the foot of Smuggler’s Notch, will be offering some great clinics for women, beginners, intermediate and advanced climbers alike, and a wicked slide show by Ian Osteyee at the village tavern, 6pm

For complete event info, schedule and clinics, visit: sunrise adventure sports.com

New M8 at “The Lake”

Tiny Dancer

Lake Willoughby, VT

FA: 01-21-11 Ryan Brooks and Josh Hurst

“Tiny Dancer, It’s between Plug and Chug and Call of the Wild.  It’s a modern mixed route that deserves to see a lot of traffic due to it’s accessibility, reliability and rock quality” -Josh Hurst

tiny-dancer-3a

tiny-dancer-1aP1: M7  Climb 20′ of Plug and Chug than diagnal right on ice blobs to the center of the overhanging rock.  Take the weakness up and right to more ice blobs on the mid-cliff ledge.  Belay on left in the ice.  It is possible to take ice blobs directly up to the rock in some years.

tiny-dancer-2aP2: M8  Start up the flake system to a small roof.  Trend right, crux, to a shallow corner system.  Once behind the icicles take the line of least resistance to the top.

Rack: 5-8 ice screws, standard rack to 2″, no pins needed, 12 quickdraws

Photo’s by Ryan Brooks.

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