Katahdin Tales

Mt. Katahdin, Baxter State Park ME

11/30/2011 – 12/6/2011

By Alan Cattabriga

Morning light touches the summit of Baxter Peak after a light snow.

Katahdin, late November.  Doug, Fred, Chris and I are booked. All our friends thought we were nuts. I think the Baxter State Park Rangers did too.  I guess I don’t blame everyone. After all, early season ice is a gamble, never mind the fact that this seasons start has been an on again, off again affair.  To roll the dice on something being climbable in this remote place with the commitment needed?  Ok, perhaps a little nuts. But there is something still very intriguing about going into this mountain with the earth still brown.

However, snow is a beneficial ingredient, one can ski in with a towed load. And it would not take much snow to ski the road to Roaring Brook.  As our departure date closes in, the park is still without snow. We would have to get crafty on getting the gear in. And with the chance of conditions  being entirely different getting out, a quiver of  special gear must come with us.

Sleds, Skis, Wagons, Bikes & Cars – photo Fredwardo

 

I know one thing, I’m not carrying a huge pack to Roaring Brook. Just the amount of wine, whiskey and food out weigh me. Add in the other gear and I’m totally out horse powered. From RB to Chimney Pond is only 3.2 miles so thats fine. I can make two trips if necessary.

On the day of our departure Doug gets a call from Ranger Rob. The gate is open and we can DRIVE to Roaring Brook! There is one tiny catch, we can’t leave the car there for if it snows, we’re screwed. Our orders are to park at the visitor center after we unload the gear. No problem, I’ll bring my mountain bike and ride the 8 miles back to RB. We laugh at this news and think “Now who is crazy for going in so early!!!”

Rob has one more piece of info though, it rained recently and most of the ice that was forming, fell. Yeah, who is crazy now. But ice is not our only goal, for Katahdin offers many wonderful adventures.

 

The places and the characters in the story below are a blend of both fact and fiction. Some events have been changed. Any resemblance to places, people, alive or deceased is pure coincidence and a dirty shame.

After an insane night in Millinocket, a night of partying with inked, edgy, Russian chicks, a bar fight and racing across the road in front of logging trucks, the day dawns blue and cold. A healthy serving of eggs & hash at Angelos Pizza Grill is consumed and we are off. There is not a speck of white to be seen along the drive in. We pass the gatehouse and motor the dirt road to Roaring Brook. A quick unload of our stuff at the bunkhouse ensues. Plastic bottles are filled with the plethora of liquors we brought. Jagermeister, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Makers Mark, Fireball Whiskey, Root and Laphroaig. Alas, the amount of alcohol to empty bottle ratio is way off.

 

Essentials of the trip – photo Fredwardo

 

I move the car back to the visitor center.  After a few belts of Makers Mark and a heavy application of green wax,  I’m on the bike riding like it’s my job. Except I’m not a bike rider. I arrive back at Roaring Brook with burning thighs and a slightly abused ass. But that was nothing usual.
The rangers are not around much. I recall hearing something about firearm, taser and truncheon practice needed for the coming season. We were left a radio and asked us not to burn the bunkhouse down or get killed. We told Rob would do our best.
Our first full day at Chimney Pond opens socked in with undercast.  After multiple coffees, ramen with tuna and many smokes with Man with Smoking Face, we are ready. The Machine wakes with a sore knee and decides to lay low for the day. Fredwardo, Smoking Face & I, not knowing what ice is climbable decide to hike up to the Cilley/Barber to see if we can tell what is going on. Our paper work is hung on the clipboard at the ranger outpost and we’re off.

Our perfectly filled out paper work – photo Fredwardo (click to enlarge)

                                                       
 With the pond not frozen we must bushwhack along the right side.  And for added spice, it snowed a few inches during the night. This causes us to move like hooded, clumsy thieves thru the fir and spruce. Once at the headwall we get some views, the best hope for some ice looks to be along the Cathedral side on the slabs under Dougal’s Delight. Once above these slabs we would work right and slide up Gully #3 to the Cathedral Ridge then down that trail.
 

The view from Pamola to the slabs

Thin but very climbable ice is ascended for hundreds of feet.  A unique talus field greets us high on the mountain above the ice. As we weave thru its huge stones, our voices ring out with admiration of this beautiful place.

Fredwardo working on the slabs

 
Gully #3 is and order of the Northeast Special. Snow, ice, turf, alders and rock. However we do possess some environmental ethics and not wanting to hurt the little plants, climb onto the ridge forming the right side of the gully as soon as we can.
We return to the bunkhouse and find the Machine engrossed in a book. The book speaks of the mythical being, Pomola. Our friend reads us a few of its short chapters as we sip whiskey.

The Book of Dudley – photo Fedwardo

My mind entertains the thought of this winged beast. I move from one reality to another, to that of what we call a dream, though I’m fully awake. Day turns to night quickly this time of year. Even on a sunny day, this aspect of the mountain, denies the light from entering.  We all step outside. The clouds have departed, a strong wind has pushed them away.  I watch the crescent moon above Pamola Peak. The stars are bright and the myth beckons. With the ice being compromised by the mild air, tomorrow we shall walk in Pomola’s realm.
Day four is beautifully clear. A stout wind caresses the place we hike in. We are all together and on the Hamlin Ridge.  This ridge amazing, for the location splits the North and South Basins. The basins of light and dark respectively.

Machine and Man with Smoking Face, Hamlin Ridge

Our pace is leisurely. Moving in this place on a day such as this, with just my three companions, is an experience to savor. The clouds are in rare form. Their shape, colours and depth are wonderful, once again I feel as if I’ve slipped into a dream state.

Clouds

However there is not a hint of Pomola.  From Hamlin’s summit I gaze to Pamola Peak then along the jagged ridge to Baxter.

Pamola, Chimney Peak & the Knife Edge

Tomorrow we will do the traverse from the Cathedrals to Pamola Peak. We will tread where Pomola dwells and I greatly desire to feel something yet unknown.
We stop by the ranger outpost on our way back. Leroy is there. I’m not sure if he is a ranger or not for he is very old and his clothes looks like that of a Maine hunter from the past.  We get some Poutine and smokes from the snack shop and each get a ranger snow globe from the gift shop.

The place for gifts, smokes, & salty meats

A quiet evening is in store. The Laphroaig comes out. As we sip, the Chimney Pond Tales flow like the whiskey. After a few chapters all of us drift into our own thoughts then sleep comes down.
Morning comes. The clouds have returned and the air though damp has warmed more. Our visibly is limited. Once on the Cathedrals fifty feet is about as far as one can see.

Gorillas on the Ridge

 
 On Baxter Peak the mist has become  heavy, just short of rain.  Even though a view would be nice, I’m enjoying moving along the Knife Edge in this fog.  Its the perfect environment for the image of I’ve conjured. Close to Chimney Peak the clouds open with little holes for a few seconds and offer us a chance for some views.
 
 
 
 
Nearing Chimney Peak- photo Fredwardo

The mountain sweeps down and contours around in the quintessential ancient cirque form. This is the place where Pomola roams, but where is he?

Man in Sneaker, Chimney Peak – photo Fredwardo

The clouds close upon us once more and on Chimney Peak, a light rain greets us. The down climb is a little tricky as is the ascent to Pamola Peak for the rocks are slick.
On the summit we pause. This is the place Pomola had his first smoke. A smoke that consisted of birch bark, balsam fir and tar paper. It is here his beard caught fire from the pipe. This is the place he dove headlong from, eclipsing even the brightest comet, down into Chimney Pond.  As I think of this another part of the myth enters my thought. He does not like humans and his spirit causes cold weather.  It’s all too obvious now, Pomola is away. We pay homage to him before we descend. A smoke in this magical place, a small gift to the wind and leave some pipe-weed in a nook for the beast.
Its our last evening in the basin. With heavy hearts we finish off the Laphroaig, the last of our whiskey.

Not so good. In fact, not good at all!

 
Rain is falling. In the morning we play the valet card, and radio the rangers to bring our car to Roaring Brook. Early season on Katahdin is a time of no guarantees.  But many things can happen that are unforeseen.  Short days and total solitude better be on the agenda,  if not perhaps you should stay away.
 
 
 
Acknowledgments;
To my companions, Doug, Chris & Freddie. Thank you for enduring me on the trip and suffering thru this tale. I know walking with Man in Sneaker was tough. But it was not my frickn’ fault you all just brought ice boots and slippers. Fucking-A!
Many thanks to the Baxter State Park Rangers and especially Rob, you guys are awesome! But I suggest you get more meats on your snack menu.
And lastly to any fool that reads this cone of crap. Good job and remember to use the hand sanitizer after.
~Alfonzo

Unfinished Business…

Cannon and I have a checkered past: I’ve backed off of more routes there than I’ve finished.  I’ve crawled my way down the talus after spraining my ankle.  Many consider consider Cannon their go to crag… for me, knowing I’m going to climb there the next day is a sure recipe for a restless night.

Article by Patrick Cooke

I first tried to climb the Black Dike in February 2009.  I had a week off from work, conditions were good in NH, and I was ready to go.  Unfortunately, as happens all too often, circumstance arose to ruin the best-laid plans.  My partner couldn’t make it up for our planned day to hit the Dike, and a week of climbing turned into a week of scrounging for partners with ever-declining weather.

By Thursday, I’d managed to find a partner for only one day and it was beginning to rain.  Fantastic conditions in the Valley were steadily deteriorating, but a forecast for colder temperatures starting Thursday night meant there was still hope that the Dike would be in.  Furtive pleas on the forums landed me an experienced partner, and it looked like I’d be able to salvage the week…

Moving through the rock traverse and swinging into the ice on the second pitch, things were not going as well as I’d hoped.  The previous night’s rain was followed by snow, and each swing brought about a cascade of flash-frozen snow and dinner plates.  My first sign of trouble, though, was looking up at p.2 and Nick (who’d climbed it a number of times) saying “I don’t want any part of that” when I offered him the lead for the sake of keeping moving and staying warm.  We’d made the slog up there, however, so I had to give it a try.  Needless to say, we bailed, tails firmly tucked between our legs.

In retrospect, I wasn’t really ready for the Dike.  Looking back now I realize I just didn’t have enough experience on the sharp end in less than ideal conditions to feel confident moving through thin, brittle conditions well above gear.  This experience only added to the mystique Cannon has held in my psyche:  where some only see possibility, I only saw the gates of Mordor.

The Black Dike

Good early season conditions – December 19, 2011

 

After seeing Erik Eisele’s report on climbing Fafnir on the 18th, it seemed like it was finally time to address some unfinished business.  With a 10am meeting at the climber’s lot, Chris and I were not the first to arrive that day, but we had a nice relaxed start and no one lined up behind us at least.  It was cold, but not so cold that standing around for an hour waiting for the party ahead of us to clear the 2nd belay seemed unreasonable.

 

The early bird gets the fresh ice… while the sleepyheads get to sit around and wait!

 

After starting up, we found brittle ice on the first and second pitches, and wet fat ice to top off the whole thing.  Traversing through the rock traverse felt infinitely less terrifying than it was two and a half years ago, and the second pitch as a whole was one of the more enjoyable pitches of ice I’ve ever led.  Topping out, darkness engulfed us, and, while descending down the climber’s path, we were treated to a great view of the lights and civilization that awaited us to the south.

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There’s nothing quite as satisfying as settling some unfinished business.  Climbing the Dike as my first real ice route of the season was not something I had planned, but it was an opportunity too good to pass up.  Looking up at Cannon from the Notch, I still see a dark and forbidding face, but I can’t wait to get back up there.

 

Harvard Cabin Update – Happy Holidays!

Santa Claus FA. "Tinsel & Mistletoe" WI 4 Somewhere Near the North Pole - Photo by Cramp!, NEice Photo Gallery

Seasons Greetings,

Just a quick holiday greeting as Marcia and I are about to head back up the trail with our annual Christmas Ham. Cabin visitors over the next few days may get to enjoy some left-overs! Sorry, no guarantees!

General Conditions

Conditions are improving ever so slightly. Weather is still extremely variable. For example, I enjoyed the my first frosty beard in O’Dells on Friday while climbing with HMC President Peter McCarthy. Then on Wednesday, it was a glove-less day in Pinnacle Gully. Even still, it was about the best ice I’ve climbed this season!

So, without getting into too much detail, it is slowly but surely starting to look and feel like winter on the Rockpile. Hermit Lake Caretaker Dave Weston and I were able to make about 30 linked turns on a powdery summit cone on Sunday, December 17th. As is normal, South-Easterly aspects make for nice catch, even when snow-fall is minimal. Of course, not too long after that we saw temperatures rise again along with the return of mixed and liquid precipitation.

Of course, the precipitation and relatively thin snow-pack,  is making for some interesting conditions on higher-angle terrain, thus prompting the season’s first General Advisory to be posted for Tuckerman Ravine. You can read the Advisory and see recent photos taken in the Ravines at http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org.

Traction Required

As you’ve probably guessed, the unstable weather has made for some interesting trail conditions. Just short of needing to pitch-out the Tuckerman Ravine Trail, for now traction is REQUIRED!  Of course, crampons will work but lighter forms of traction like Micro-spikes, Yak-Traks, Stabilicers, etc would be ideal. To be clear, the Tuckerman Ravine Trail is locked in Ice from Pinkham to Hermit Lake, so please be careful, especially with heavy packs. Exercise extra caution if you are using your crampons while traveling on hiking trails.

Harvard Cabin Registration

Just a reminder, if you are planning on staying at Harvard Cabin, registration is first come, first serve. The Harvard Cabin Register can be found at the Front-Desk at Pinkham Notch Visitor Center from 6:30 AM – 9:00 PM. After hours, 9:00 PM – 6:30 AM, you’ll find the register downstairs in the Pack-up room. Please take time to read all instructions and information and to complete the registration process. This will ensure everyone’s stay at Harvard Cabin is comfortable and enjoyable!

I’m hoping for a busy holiday week. If you’re coming up for New Years…..bring a tent, just in case it gets a little too “hot” in the cabin!
Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy New Year and Happy Climbing!

Time to get this pig up the trail. See you soon,

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.comNOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and April 1st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org.

Pole Dance

Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch NH

Matt McCormick following the business part of the climb – Bayard Russell

Pole Dance- NEI 5

FA: December 17, 2010
Kevin Mahoney, Bayard Russell & Matt McCormick

“After an exciting afternoon on the ground dodging missiles in the south facing sun, “Pole Dance” went down. This new route at Frankenstein is right of the Bragg-Pheasant in a spot I had never seen any real ice before. The oblique afternoon sun cooled things off and we went for it. We all had a chance to lead the easy first pitch, but it was Kevin Mahoney’s turn when we finally had a chance to do the pitch that mattered.” – Bayard Russell Jr.

More at…
MattMccormickClimbing.blogspot.com

Source: Matt McCormick & Bayard Russell


Cilley-Barber, Mt Katahdin Maine 12/18/11

The Cilley-Barber (IV 4) is “IN!”

Max Neale just returned from a trip to Katahdin. Here are some photos Max took during his climb, Zebediah Engberg climbing.

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Ciley Barber

Ciley Barber 12-18-11

Photos by Max Neale

 

Winter Is Here!

Fafnir, No “Small Victory”.

Well it looks like winter is here, finally!

Things are starting to form nicely on Cannon Cliff. The shortest days are just around the corner and the weather is slowly getting colder. Looks good! …lets hope it does not melt away.

Erik Eisele shared some photos from his weekend ascent of “Fafnir”, Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch  NH. Conditions look great! Enjoy!

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Harvard Cabin Report – 12-15-11

Greetings Mountaineers,

Well, Ladies and Gentlemen, it seems that Mother Nature and Jack Frost have a lot to sort out these days. Just as things start to appear green and spring-like again, old man Jack decides to sprinkle just a little bit of his seasonal specialty across the mountain. Not too much, not too little, but just enough to give the ever so subtle impression that winter is looming. No sooner, the old maid decides to make her rounds and sweep-up in an attempt to keep her grip on the lush, spring-like forest. A slight exaggeration, maybe? But, really, When will this power struggle be resolved???I’ve stopped thinking about snow at this point, we can’t even seem to get two consecutive days of temperatures conducive to ice formation. For example, last Sunday, I spent most of a frigid, got-to-keep-moving day in Tuckerman Ravine on and around The Open Book. The ice was in, it was young, it was soft, and it was promising. I returned with a partner on Monday hoping to gain access to the steeper ice on the headwall in an attempt to finally enjoy a day of true alpine ice in Tuckerman Ravine. In a normal year, the ice season in Tux is somewhat short-lived. There is usually only a few days of high quality, fun, curtain-to-curtain ice climbing in Tux before it is all buried by snow. Timing is everything and I’ve been determined not to miss the choose-your-own-pillar adventure in Tux this season. I’ve been ready and waiting for those magical few days. While it’s normally come and gone by now, still I wait.

Variable Conditions, Peeks and Valleys

Having enjoyed the coldest day of this Fall on Sunday, I was able to set my first V-Thread of the season and rappel down to the base of the Open Book. Happy to return to the cabin, I set fire to the wood stove and, much to my disappointment, watched the temperature OUTSIDE exceed the freezing mark. Returning to Tux on Monday morning in what was very near T-Shirt weather, my climbing partner and I decided it wasn’t even worth setting screws. We enjoyed the thickest ice down low. Nearly bomber only a dozen hours earlier, it was now significantly thinner, detaching, with much more running water behind it. We climbed high and fast, hoping to gain access to the large ice formations in the center of the Headwall. However, the snow quickly turned to mashed potatoes, with tear drop, point releases of snow above the Sluice (south facing aspect), and abundant ice fall, we decided to bail onto the Tuckerman Ravine Trail high-up on the headwall. Making the most of our day, we rock-hopped up and over the Alpine Garden and were able to enjoy some astounding views while standing on the summit of Mount Washington. Warm and wind-less, it was Mid-December in the high-peaks of New Hampshire and layers were coming off like it was a day to work on that good ol’ New England Farmers-Tan. Thanks to a group from the Dartmouth Outing Club, what would have been a rather mundane and somewhat depressingly warm summit day, proved to be very worthwhile and memorable, indeed!

On Tuesday, it was time to check out conditions in Huntington Ravine. I wish I had better news to report, but the ravine is looking rather summer like. While the approach and top-out resemble early fall conditions, there is some decent ice in Odell’s. If nothing more, at least you’ll stay mostly dry. I can’t say as much for Pinnacle, though it was been climbed more then a few times in the past week. Yale slabs are looking sketchy. As of yesterday, I could envision a catastrophic collapse of the entire slab. I’m not saying that is likely, but it is something to think about. In any case, there isn’t much ice above the slab. Harvard Bulge remains tempting but equally suspect. I did confirm a party climbed it on Monday, but it is definitely sun-baked, metamorphosized ice at this point. As for the north side of the Ravine, from the top of Odell’s I could see that there is some continuous ice in the middle of Damnation and North gullies, but it is bone dry leading up to and above these sections. Not really making them attractive objectives at this point.

Snow and Ice is coming….

I don’t mean to fill your inbox with Doom and Gloom. I am actually very excited for the impending season. However late, Winter will arrive soon and Harvard Cabin is the place to be. The cabin was full inside this past weekend with and additional 6 teams camped outside! As always, Harvard Cabin provided a perfect setting for climbers to gather and celebrate a new season. This past weekend stands to prove that there is ice to be climbed. That being said, a trip to the summit and a night at Harvard Cabin isn’t too tall a price to pay even if ideal conditions do not prevail. There isn’t any ice in the valley and it’s too cold and wet for most rock climbing, so you might as well take the gear for a walk and spend a day or two on the Rock Pile! I’d love to see you!

We are expecting some snow accumulation over the next couple of days. The mercury isn’t going to respond like we’d all like to see, but it is going to be quite windy over the weekend. The forecast is calling for clear and windy conditions. This will definitely transport snow, bringing you anxious skiers closer to some of the first turns on the rock-pile this season. I should mention there are some nice patches of snow high up on the summit cone, just below the fuel farm, in what is known as the Eastern Snow Fields. The snow has remained soft and fluffy since it fell last week. I did sight a skier in the snow fields on Monday. I’m fairly certain it was a Mount Washington Observatory employee as it would be a long walk for a few linked turns, but if you are feeling desperate, they’d be quality, nonetheless.

A Word from the USFS Snow Rangers….

The Snow Rangers have returned to the higher elevations! No doubt, they’ve made good use of their time giving the lack of winter conditions on the rock-pile this December. The post-Irene forest has kept the Rangers very busy in other parts of the White Mountain National Forest. While the Rangers are winter fanatics, they are also skilled foresters and administrators. Their expertise is wide and varied and their value and contributions extend far beyond snow-filled ravines. While they have been busy elsewere, they certainly kept on eye on conditions and activity in the Cutler River Drainage. I was excited to learn that there were Rangers in the ravines on Tuesday. What better indication that the mountain is changing seasons, if only little by little. Following their assessment of current conditions on Tuesday, the Forest Service hasn’t posted an sort of advisory yet, but they Rangers shared their findings in a conditions update available at http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org. I would encourage everyone to take a few minutes to read this update and be sure to get dialed into some of the great and useful Social Media Outlets that the Forest Service/Snow Rangers will be utilizing this season!

Mount Washington Ice Fest 2012

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2012 promotional materials have gone to press! If you look closely, included in the amazing list of sponsors, you’ll see the Harvard Mountaineering Club Logo. As I mentioned last week, the club is proud to be among a group of non-profits helping to sponsor Ice Fest this year. Our goal is to help promote safety in and around the Ravines by making sure that all climbers, newbies and veterans, are aware of the cabins location, function, and purpose. It is a great resource for all mountain travelers, not only guests. We are hoping to overcome any confusion about the cabin or misgivings that currently exist. Ice Fest is going to be a blast and HMC is excited to be a part of it! If you haven’t seen the poster, you can check it out by Clicking Here! You’ll also find recent photos from the Ravines featuring Ragged Mountain Equipment Gear Expert and Alpine Super Model, Max Lurie.

That’s all for now folks. Wish I had more exciting news. In any event, I’m hoping for another crowded weekend at the cabin. Stay motivated people, be patient, and stay safe….it’s coming!!!

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.comNOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and April 1st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org.

Small Victories

It’s mid-December and things are still looking like it’s early November.  Nevertheless, there IS some ice to climb out there! People are finding ice up on Mt. Washington and Mt. Webster, the Dike was climbed again, and there was ice to climb on the North Face of Pitchoff this weekend.

I managed to finally get out and swing the tools on Sunday, making a run up Shoestring Gully.  It was not your typical Shoestring experience, but it was IN! (Maybe not In enough to make the roadside report, but it was in enough for Matt, Chris, and I, motivated by the fact that we’re soft and  didn’t want to get up at 4 just to live the human popsicle experience on Washington, to try!).

Bodyweight supported fully by ice - Matt demonstrating this new fangled "ice climbing" thing.

Chris and Matt exiting off of "thick water" into the snow and turf - typical early season mixed climbing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was boney and thin, with parts of it better resembling “thick water” than nice hard ice, but it sure was nice to swing the tools.  Granted, I think Matt is actually out right now shopping for new picks as a result of our adventures, but I think it as worth it!

Matt looking like a pro while I have an ADD moment...

Hopefully the gradually dropping temperatures will result in more options and a return of ice to the lower elevations.  Until then, we’ll just have to celebrate the small victories!

Article by Patrick Cooke

Harvard Cabin – Opening Weekend 2011/12

Seasons Greetings Mountaineers,

It’s our favorite time of year again! Winter is right around the corner and that means everyone is looking forward to another fantastic season at Harvard Cabin!

I spent the last couple of weeks out west enjoying some wonderful early season winter conditions in the Rocky Mountains. A late Fall trip to Colorado wouldn’t be complete without beautiful dawn patrol ski tours leading to picture perfect powdery ski lines. Earning turns is the perfect way to get ready for another season on Mount Washington! Not to mention some fantastic alpine rock and ice! So much good road-side ice to be had…..who would ever think of trekking into the backcountry??? Just kidding!

I did do fair amount of traveling since closing the cabin last season. From Quebec’s beautiful Gaspé Peninsula to the jagged peaks of The Tetons and down to the amazing razorback formations at Seneca Rocks, I ran into familiar faces from Harvard Cabin everywhere I seemed to drag a rope! Proof-positive that the Harvard Cabin guest is hard-core and ready-to-send, no matter what time of year! You all inspire me!

Cream Puffs and Harvard Cabin

I was able to put Harvard Cabin in a public spotlight for a little while this Fall. I did some volunteering with The Granite State Ambassadors at The Big E, the largest fair in the northeast. For over 90 years, the Eastern States Exposition has showcased the six New England States. Included in the 175 acres of fairground, you’ll find the famous Avenue of States, home to a replica of each original New England State House. Inside each building, you’ll find plenty of food, crafts, products, and tourism info pertaining to each state. Besides the Blueberry Pie and Ice Cream, Mount Washington is always a New Hampshire highlight. It was fun being part of the fair and sharing Harvard Cabin with hundreds of fair-goers from all around New England and beyond.

Current Conditions

I should stop rambling and skip to the chase -current conditions on The Rock Pile. After an amazing pump-fake over Halloween weekend we were left to wonder if it was a Trick or Treat. Well, at this point it sure seems like it was a big, mean Trick!  The mountains have pretty much returned to late fall conditions. As I’m sure you are aware, all the early season ice is basically gone. Snow is even hard to find following a winter storm that occurred only last week! Sure, we’ve all been treated to an extra long rock season, but this is getting ridiculous! Fortunately, the weather does seem to finally be trending in the right direction, though we remain well above seasonal temps. Keep your fingers crossed that we keep trending towards the negative temps!

It hard to believe I was able to sink my tools into some decent ice at way back in October as I picked my way up Yale Gully, a promising start to the season. I mention this now only because at the top out, I found plenty of potential for above average rock fall as a result of erosion caused by Hurricane Irene. I’m hoping this latest warm spell helps to further settle the gullies before our regularly scheduled mid-winter thaw. There sure seemed to be a lot of loose debris that needed to come down. I’d expect to see lots of new debris in The Fan until things really get locked into place for the winter. We may want to be a little more mindful of rock fall potential in Huntington this season. As always, be sure to limit your exposure from above and keep climbers below in mind as your make your way towards the top-outs.

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest – February 3-5, 2012

We’ve got another exciting season on tap. One bit of super exciting news is that Harvard Mountaineering Club has become an official sponsor of the 2012 Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival set to go off on February 3rd, 2012. HMC is proud to sponsor such an awesome event and is thankful for the opportunity to promote Harvard Cabin and its role in aiding public safety on Mount Washington each winter.

As usual, Ice Fest will include many participants. Everyone, from the newest of climbers to salty veterans, can enjoy the amazing list of sponsors, gear demos, and clinics run by some of the top pro climbers in the World. Guest Guides this year will include the likes of Freddie Wilkinson, Janet Bergman, Emilie Drinkwater, Matt McCormick, and others. This years Keynote speaker is none other then the legendary Will Gadd! Get psyched, there will be tons of prizes, plenty of swag, awesome clinics, and live music! Stay-tuned for more information on HMC’s participation. As the time grows nearer, keep an eye on http://icefest.blogspot.com for more details and a complete schedule.

Facebook & NEice.com

We’ve been more focused on skiing and climbing the last few seasons, but we’ve finally started a Harvard Cabin Facebook Fan Page. (Click Here) . I’ll be adding content and information in the coming weeks. Until then, just press “Like” and tell your “Friends” to do the same.

Also, from time to time this season, I will be contributing content to Doug Millen who maintains the popular website, NEice.com. Stories will focus mostly on cabin life, but I’ll be sure to try and sneak-in a few paragraphs regarding an epic ski line or two. Come on now, it wouldn’t be New England Ice if we weren’t skiing on it too!!!

Harvard Cabin Trail Sign

I met with the Forest Service/Snow Rangers on Monday afternoon to review the Winter Operating Plan. As usual, the meeting was informative and a helpful in getting into my winter routine of helping to promote safety on the mountain. Once again, I was left humbled by the level of readiness and the 100% commitment to safety and excellence displayed by the Snow Rangers. Consistent with those values, the Forest Service has agreed to place a trail sign at the intersection of the Tuckerman Ravine Trail and the Fire Road. The sign will point travelers in the direction of the cabin and make the fire road a more recognizable reference point for everyone. This will no doubt, create better awareness of the cabin, thus increasing safety. Even better, It will surely help prevent more then a few late night travelers from missing the fire road and accidentally spending a cold night at Hermit Lake.

Opening Weekend….Get to Harvard Cabin!

I’ve received a few e-mails and phone calls over this week. Seems like we’ll have a handful of guests at the cabin for opening weekend 2011/12. I hope you’ll be there too!

Well, I really need to be heading up the trail again. Supply Load #1 as been delivered to the cabin. I have about 5 more to go before the weekend is over. I promise all of my updates won’t be such great works of shameless self-promotion. It’s been a long summer, so you’ll have to forgive me this time. I look forward to seeing you soon! Stay safe and THINK SNOW!!!

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker
Rich@powder-hound.comNOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and April 1st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org.

False Start…

5 yard penalty – repeat first down

Article by Patrick Cooke

It seems like every year I find myself in the same position -I’m ready for the season to start, but that perfect alignment of weather, work, partners, and family commitments just isn’t quite right.  Working at a boarding school, I am fortunate to have the full week off for Thanksgiving.  With Doug and Alfonzo setting the bar so high in terms of making the most of the early season ice, I figured it was time to atone for my early season sins and get up north.

First and Ten…

Whereas I had no partner lined up for my aborted adventure on Mt. Lincoln, I found a willing partner for a romp up to Huntington Ravine on Tuesday.  In addition to Doug and Alfonzo, some other NEice denizens managed to find some climbable lines in the few days before my break began, so it seemed like there would be hope.  At the very least, neither of us had ever been up to Huntington, so we figured it would be a nice hike.

With my partner coming from VT and unable to do a particularly early start (something about grad school and a group project the night before…), we were heading up around 7:00am and were at the base of Pinnacle by around 9:00.

We weren’t the first ones into the Ravine, but what we saw wasn’t promising: two climbers trying to scratch their way up something between Pinnacle and Central, only for the leader to lower off of some shrubbery about 20′ up. Part of the game with chasing ice this early in the season is avoiding the sun at all costs.  Odell’s looked climbable, but also like it might disintegrate under a climber’s weight.  As my buddy said, “I’ve seen better ice in my freezer!”

Undeterred, our 2 new friends from Quebec set forth for the top of the ravine via a contrived line of bushwhacking somewhere to the right of Central.  Knowing I had the weekend after Thanksgiving (and a forecast with colder temperatures), I opted to call it a day of taking the tools for a walk and headed back to Pinkham.

False Start… 5 yard penalty, repeat first down -First and fifteen!

By Thursday evening, I had successfully relocated myself from the holiday’s festivities in southern CT to basecamp for the coming days in northern NH.  I was primed and had the alarm set for 3am, at least until I saw Leaf’s conditions report from that day:

“For the conditions report, I will write a series of haikus. The title is: HEIN

Broke trail into Hunts/ It wasn’t too bad at all/Until the talus

Snow on huge boulders/ Waiting to twist and swallow /Unsuspecting legs

Rotten and hollow /A waterfall underneath /That describes the ice

Would have been pleasant/ If the wind wasn’t hallowing/ Gusts maybe 80

Goggles, face mask on/ Then the snow above the ice/ Waist deep swimming – hmm

Snow slide potential?/ Gained the ridge between gullies/ That wasn’t easy either

Finally the Garden/ Beautiful undercast seen/ There was a rainbow

Whew, I’m exhausted/ Happy Thanksgiving to all/ Please pass the turkey”

 

Leaf’s reward after a hard climb

Now, although I have never met Leaf, I’ve seen her contributions on this site enough to know that if she found it sketchy, I wasn’t going to find it any better the next day.  Foiled again!

False Start… 5 yard penalty, repeat first down – First and Twenty!

Nevertheless, I managed a fun day of cross country skiing on Friday with my family, while Doug and Alfonzo also managed some non-vertical fun in the mountains.  The ice may be fickle, but it’s good to remember that there are other worthwhile pursuits than chasing cascades of frozen water.

My quest for early season ice in November has sadly come to a close.  Temperatures finally seem to be moving in the right direction, so perhaps this weekend will offer up some fun frozen treats for those of you who are able to get out.  Although working at a boarding school gives me some pretty sweet breaks, this weekend I’ll be experiencing the double-edged nature of my work -weekend dorm duty.

Give it a week or so, though, and I’ll be back out there.

First and Twenty… totally doable!