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Special Ice Climbing Participation Trends and Analysis by Tom Stuessy Introduction In the spring of 2005 NEIce was asked to help with an ice climbing research effort. The site’s owner, Doug Millen, agreed to assist and posted the survey on the web page. The study focused on how perceptions of risk, creativity, and challenge while at work influenced the way people participated in ice climbing. In addition to the correlations between work and ice climbing, trends in ice climbing were also investigated regarding gear and type of participation. Trends investigated included soloing and leashless climbing. These two dimensions of climbing were isolated due to the consequences of making a mistake while performing one of them. As can be seen in a recent article written by Will Gadd (2006) in Gripped magazine, climbing is in fact a risky endeavor. It is not the focus of this article to argue for or against what Will Gadd has done to promote or discourage risky climbing, but rather to shed some light on our current participation trends that increase risk to the sport of ice climbing such as leashless climbing. Participation in risk recreation is the act of intentionally putting oneself in harms way. The motivations to engage in high-risk recreation range from social pressure, seeking an identity, adrenalin, or testing one’s skill (Ewert & Hollenhorst, 1989). Testing one’s mettle is primal. However, society takes great measures to protect people from danger at all levels. Most of what is needed for basic survival can be ordered over the phone or Internet. Humans no longer have to physically fight in order to show dominance or survive; yet these urges are still present. High-risk recreation is the most socially accepted and convenient way to engage with these urges. To experience risk, employ skill, and to survive is a primal requirement. The Sample The sample was comprised of 67 climbers at “Ice Fest” in North Conway and those solicited on NEIce during the spring of 2005 (N=358). Among the sample 92 % were male and the average experience level was 7.9 years of climbing. Ages among ranged from 18-65 with 74% falling between 24-49 years of age. Participation Trends and Data Analysis The survey asked questions regarding solo and leashless climbing. Perception of risk associated with climbing solo or without leashes was correlated to how confident subjects were regarding climbing skill. In addition, measures of control, freedom, and challenge will be shared. Subjects that rated their climbing skill as better than average perceived climbing solo as more dangerous for themselves than others. Conversely, risk recreation literature illustrates that risk recreationists will typically rate their own skill as superior to others, which would have resulted in a perception that climbing solo for others is more dangerous than for themselves. This finding is encouraging as it lends some support to the notion that ice climbers can effectively decipher their own skill base and can choose appropriate challenges while ice climbing. In addition to rating the risk associated with solo climbing, perceptions of leashless climbers were also collected and analyzed. Those climbers among the sample that rated their own climbing skill above average did not perceive leashless climbing as being easier or more liberating to movement while climbing, nor was it perceived as being more dangerous. It is a commonly accepted notion in adventure recreation literature that feelings of control are a motivating force in participation. Data analysis determined that those climbers that perceive their skill as above average had strong correlations with feelings of control and confidence while ice climbing. Feelings of control while ice climbing were highly correlated with perceptions of confidence while at work. Feelings of expression and creativity while ice climbing were also highly correlated with feelings of freedom and creativity while at work. These relationships were not inverse, meaning that climbers did not seek feelings of control and freedom while ice climbing because of low perceptions of control and freedom while at work. Instead, feelings of control and freedom transcend both dimensions of the subject’s lives. Discussion The data collected as a result of this research effort supported the notion that ice climbers are a motivated, creative, and educated group of people. This research points to ice climbers having accurate meta-skills (ability to judge one’s own knowledge) and work lives that allow for expression and freedom. Leashless climbing will continue to grow given the data collected here. Among the sample leashless climbing was not perceived as more dangerous. However, it was also not perceived as being to the climber’s advantage. This issue will continue to be controversial among student climbers. While a student can hang from a leash and not drop a tool because of a leash, they can ignorantly commit to a section of ice that will break leaving them connected to a large fallen piece of ice via the tool’s leash. The pedagogical use of leashless tools is still up for debate. The data presented here lends support to the notion that climbers can effectively assess the dangers associated with solo climbing, particularly for themselves. Future research needs to better address perceived skills in all areas of climbing such as when climbers are ready to lead or how different types of climbing environments influence climbing participation/decisions. It is obvious that more data collection focused on trends exclusively is needed. It is hoped that this collection will take place in the near future and shared among the greater ice climbing community. During data collection subjects emailed the primary investigator with great suggestions. These suggestions will help mold a subsequent data collection process. Tom Stuessy is a professor at Green Mountain College in Poultney, Vermont in the Recreation and Outdoor Studies Department. He would like to hear your suggestions for future research. What research do you think will help the climbing the community the most? If you have suggestions please send them to Tom at: stuessyt@greenmtn.edu.

Special

Ice Climbing Participation Trends and Analysis

by Tom Stuessy

Introduction

In the spring of 2005 NEIce was asked to help with an ice climbing research effort. The site’s owner, Doug Millen, agreed to assist and posted the survey on the web page.

The study focused on how perceptions of risk, creativity, and challenge while at work influenced the way people participated in ice climbing. In addition to the correlations between work and ice climbing, trends in ice climbing were also investigated regarding gear and type of participation. Trends investigated included soloing and leashless climbing. These two dimensions of climbing were isolated due to the consequences of making a mistake while performing one of them.

As can be seen in a recent article written by Will Gadd (2006) in Gripped magazine, climbing is in fact a risky endeavor. It is not the focus of this article to argue for or against what Will Gadd has done to promote or discourage risky climbing, but rather to shed some light on our current participation trends that increase risk to the sport of ice climbing such as leashless climbing.

Participation in risk recreation is the act of intentionally putting oneself in harms way. The motivations to engage in high-risk recreation range from social pressure, seeking an identity, adrenalin, or testing one’s skill (Ewert & Hollenhorst, 1989). Testing one’s mettle is primal. However, society takes great measures to protect people from danger at all levels. Most of what is needed for basic survival can be ordered over the phone or Internet. Humans no longer have to physically fight in order to show dominance or survive; yet these urges are still present. High-risk recreation is the most socially accepted and convenient way to engage with these urges. To experience risk, employ skill, and to survive is a primal requirement.

The Sample

The sample was comprised of 67 climbers at “Ice Fest” in North Conway and those solicited on NEIce during the spring of 2005 (N=358). Among the sample 92 % were male and the average experience level was 7.9 years of climbing. Ages among ranged from 18-65 with 74% falling between 24-49 years of age.

Participation Trends and Data Analysis

The survey asked questions regarding solo and leashless climbing. Perception of risk associated with climbing solo or without leashes was correlated to how confident subjects were regarding climbing skill. In addition, measures of control, freedom, and challenge will be shared.

Subjects that rated their climbing skill as better than average perceived climbing solo as more dangerous for themselves than others. Conversely, risk recreation literature illustrates that risk recreationists will typically rate their own skill as superior to others, which would have resulted in a perception that climbing solo for others is more dangerous than for themselves. This finding is encouraging as it lends some support to the notion that ice climbers can effectively decipher their own skill base and can choose appropriate challenges while ice climbing.

In addition to rating the risk associated with solo climbing, perceptions of leashless climbers were also collected and analyzed. Those climbers among the sample that rated their own climbing skill above average did not perceive leashless climbing as being easier or more liberating to movement while climbing, nor was it perceived as being more dangerous.

It is a commonly accepted notion in adventure recreation literature that feelings of control are a motivating force in participation. Data analysis determined that those climbers that perceive their skill as above average had strong correlations with feelings of control and confidence while ice climbing. Feelings of control while ice climbing were highly correlated with perceptions of confidence while at work. Feelings of expression and creativity while ice climbing were also highly correlated with feelings of freedom and creativity while at work.

These relationships were not inverse, meaning that climbers did not seek feelings of control and freedom while ice climbing because of low perceptions of control and freedom while at work. Instead, feelings of control and freedom transcend both dimensions of the subject’s lives.

Discussion

The data collected as a result of this research effort supported the notion that ice climbers are a motivated, creative, and educated group of people. This research points to ice climbers having accurate meta-skills (ability to judge one’s own knowledge) and work lives that allow for expression and freedom.

Leashless climbing will continue to grow given the data collected here. Among the sample leashless climbing was not perceived as more dangerous. However, it was also not perceived as being to the climber’s advantage. This issue will continue to be controversial among student climbers. While a student can hang from a leash and not drop a tool because of a leash, they can ignorantly commit to a section of ice that will break leaving them connected to a large fallen piece of ice via the tool’s leash. The pedagogical use of leashless tools is still up for debate.

The data presented here lends support to the notion that climbers can effectively assess the dangers associated with solo climbing, particularly for themselves. Future research needs to better address perceived skills in all areas of climbing such as when climbers are ready to lead or how different types of climbing environments influence climbing participation/decisions.

It is obvious that more data collection focused on trends exclusively is needed. It is hoped that this collection will take place in the near future and shared among the greater ice climbing community. During data collection subjects emailed the primary investigator with great suggestions. These suggestions will help mold a subsequent data collection process.

Tom Stuessy is a professor at Green Mountain College in Poultney, Vermont in the Recreation and Outdoor Studies Department. He would like to hear your suggestions for future research. What research do you think will help the climbing the community the most? If you have suggestions please send them to Tom at: stuessyt@greenmtn.edu.

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