10 Years!

Real Winter Pattern Coming!

All indications point to Major Cold and very stormy weather over the next 15 days

Ted Hammond enjoying the start of this weather change.  Odell’s Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH  12/06/09

Photo by Alfonzo

All long term and short term indicators (NAO, EPO, EL Nino etc…) have been pointing to cold and stormy (For weeks). Well that is now coming to full realization for Dec to Jan. The last two storms were the beginning of the pattern change. We have one last one (Dec 7/8) to complete the transition and lock the NE into below to well below average temps and a very active storm track as well.

What Ice if any survives this weeks storm should rapidly start building by the end of this week into the weekend. (Even in the southern sections to some extent) Next week should only continue to reinforce the ice building.

Snow Cover:

Check out the massive and rapid snow cover buildup over the US in just over the last 6 days ( Today -  December 1).  This is why the cold push will be so much stronger over the next 10 days, as the fresh snowpack will help in keeping the arctic air from moderating.

Source: Smike – NEice Weather Outlook

Photos by Rockytop

Blind Fate and Blue Ice Buldge Smugglers Notch VT 12/07/09

Sharpen your tools and get ready

Lowe’s path on the way to Mt. Adams 11/29/09
Photo: Doug Millen

After a good start in mid October the ice conditions have gone continually down hill. But over Thanksgiving the higher elevations got hammered with snow. Gray knob received almost 3 feet, in less than 24 hours and the cold weather has moved in. Mount Washington has been well below freezing since the front passed and the extended forecast is for continued cold weather. 6-10 day temperature forecast. …..Doug

“General mountain travel will be challenging with new snow over rocks and ice. The ice climbing season is very young so expect thin ice conditions that will make rock gear more appealing than ice screws. If Wednesday night’s precipitation event does result in an inch of rain as the valley forecast’s state the thin ice will likely be wiped out again” more at …..USFS Avalanche Bulletin

Christopher Joosen, Snow Ranger
USDA Forest Service

Photos: King Ravine Mt. Adams NH / Alfonzo

Current snow depth

More weather information

Solo climbers allowed, no minimum group size

Great news! I am packed and ready to go. Maybe I can find some ice up there.

See the park web site for more information. winter rules and regs and the NEice forum for discussion.

Source: post by greenmtnboy

Photo: South Basin from Chimney Pond by AOC

More info from apaulcalypse:

I just got off the phone with Baxter State Park (not sure if it was a ranger, just whoever picks up the 207.723.5140 phone line). According to the woman I spoke with,

a) There is no ‘gear inspection’ on arrival. You do not need to, say, have every item on a checklist, and the rangers will not deny you climbing based on what’s in your pack.

b) Climbing on Katahdin CAN still be closed down in bad weather. I asked for some examples of what constitutes ‘bad weather,’ and she listed wind chills significantly below 0, whiteouts, high avalanche danger, “things of that nature.”

c) Yes, you can climb any route as a party of two. There is no longer a minimum team size.

d) As far as she was aware, there were no designated start / end times for climbs; that is, you can climb whenever you want. She did caution that is inadvisable to be out climbing after the sun goes down, though.

e) Ropeless, technical, free-solo climbing IS allowed. If you want to hike or climb alone, there is a winter solo camping and climbing form to fill out, along with an itinerary. You can climb ropeless alone or with partners. There is no specific hardware rack required, just gear appropriate to the terrain.

- Also see the article By Steve Prettyman Winter Climbing on Mt. Katahdin

What a difference a year makes

I can’t remember a Thanksgiving that I could not climb ice, at least on Mt. Washington. It may happen this year. The ice season has continually gone down hill since mid October

I wanted to see what last year was like at the this time so I pulled some photos from the NEice Gallery. I wish I had a time machine…..Doug

[View with PicLens]

The Bivy, Keene, NY

The Bivy has been overtaken by the ever expanding influence of technology. The Bivy now has cell service, 3 bars! What will this mean? Only time will tell.