10 Years!

Erik Weihenmayer, left, and Jay Abbey, right, heading up Ham & Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. Photo by Ian Osteyee.

On The Moose’s Tooth

By Ian Osteyee, Adirondack Mountain Guides.

At the time Erik Weihenmayer had floated the idea of going to Alaska’s Ruth Glacier to climb the routes “Ham and Eggs” and “Shaken not Stirred” on the Moose’s Tooth, we had just barely finished climbing “.5 Gully” on Ben Nevis in Scotland. We still had a few climbing days left and already he was thinking about the next trip. That’s Erik though; he is really motivated to climb, more than many climbers I know.

So a few days later Erik and I, joined by Jay Abbey, flew up to Anchorage. Weather reports didn‘t look good but we already had the time set aside and the tickets had been purchased…..

Read the rest of this entry »

NEIce 2009-2010 Round-up

Most of the Tablets at Lake Willoughby lying at the base a week ago. Photo by RAH.

NEIce opened the season with a new website as it reached the 10-year anniversary milestone, a fact which stands as a tribute to the region’s wonderful ice climbing community.  Temperatures this weekend hit an unusual mark for April reaching above 80 degrees Fahrenheit in New England. While there are still pockets of solid ice to be found on Mt. Washington, we take a look back at the highs and lows of the past season.   

This past winter got off the an early start in mid-October but was slow to kick off as most routes didn’t form until early December.

• Pinnacle Gully October 15 – http://neice.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/6078
• New winter rules for Mt. Katahdin – http://neice.com/2009/11/change-in-katahdin-winter-rules/  and a trip report soon after – Doug and Alfonzo’s trip report
• Despite an early start to the season, even the Black Dike didn’t get done until early December this past winter – http://neice.com/2009/12/the-black-dike-finally/
• In a sad loss, the community said goodbye to Guy Lacelle.  A tribute to Guy – http://neice.com/2010/01/a-tribute-to-guy-lacelle/
• Bayard Russell’s ascent of the Painted Wall icicle was impressive where the beauty of the wall certainly didn’t hurt either - http://neice.com/2010/01/fa-the-painted-wall-icicle-m9-wi-5/
• Steve House opened a few eyes soloing Repentance and Remission back-to-back after the NH Ice festival- http://neice.com/2010/02/steve-house-solos-repentence-and-remission/
• While it may have escaped the notice of many, Willoughby regulars certainly took notice of the startling and massive water pressure collapse of ice on a cliffside route- http://neice.com/2010/02/hydrophobia-at-the-lake/
• Ice festivals once again seemed to provide added motivation for new lines as Matt McCormick’s new line in the Catskills showed during the ice festival there - http://neice.com/2010/02/hydropower-m9-wi5/  and during the Adirondack International Mountain Festival brought out “Bossman”,M9, finished by McCormick and Russell, and of course, House’s solo link-up following the festival in NH.

Climbing the wild ice on 'Medusa', Wi4, on the Gaspe' Peninsula, Canada. (Photo by MtnRkr)

Lots of NEIce members were out there getting after it this past week.  Travelling to the Gaspe’, Canadian Rockies, and also nearer to home on Mt. Webster in N.H.

Alfonzo gives a great Trip Report of a posse of NEicer’s sending on Mt. Webster: Mt. Webster’s new Kick My Pick Hole route

Chance meeting in the Canadian Rockies: RaginTurk and Spectre run into Ridgerunner and LarryB

WE have a new batch of NEice stickers. If you would like one, send a stamped self addressed envelope to:

Doug Millen
NEice.com
48 Woodward Ave.
Gloucester MA 01930

Well the ice is waning and so are the funds that keep NEice going. Your help is needed.

Remember, the server fees continue even during the summer when visitors and advertisers are gone.  And if you have sold something in the classified section, make a donation, if you can. This service is provided to NEice members free of charge.

Donate today!

$25.00 / Season is the standard donation. More is greatly appreciated

1. You can click the donation logo below to make a payment using PayPal. PayPal is secure and easy to use system for online payments.

2. You can also send a check payable to NEice.com to the address below

NEice.com
48 Woodward Ave.
Gloucester MA 01930

Thanks for your support

Doug Millen

Donation Thank You List

-